Allergy-Safe Metals: 304 vs 316L, Gold-Filled vs Plated, Nickel-Safe

Why Allergy-Safe Metals Matter

If you’ve ever worn a new piece of jewellery and noticed itching, redness, or irritation, you’re not alone. Metal sensitivity—particularly to nickel—is one of the most common jewellery-related issues. Choosing the right material makes all the difference.

In this guide, we’ll explore stainless steel grades (304 vs 316L), compare gold-filled vs plated jewellery, and explain what nickel-safe really means under EU regulations.

Stainless Steel in Jewellery

Stainless steel is a popular choice for modern jewellery because of its durability, shine, and resistance to tarnish. But not all stainless steels are the same.

304 Stainless Steel

  • Most common jewellery grade

  • Excellent corrosion resistance for everyday use

  • Suitable for most wearers

  • Contains nickel, but release levels are generally low

316L Stainless Steel

  • Known as “surgical steel”

  • Contains molybdenum, which improves resistance to chlorides and sweat

  • Nickel is more tightly bound in the alloy, meaning it is less likely to leach out

  • Often preferred for sensitive skin and long-term wear

👉 Browse our stainless steel findings for allergy-friendly options.

Gold-Filled vs Plated

When it comes to gold jewellery, the difference between gold-filled and gold-plated is crucial for skin sensitivity and long-term durability.

Gold-Filled

  • A thick layer of solid gold mechanically bonded to a base metal

  • At least 5% of the item’s total weight is gold

  • Lasts significantly longer than plating

  • Often better tolerated by sensitive wearers

Gold-Plated

  • A thin layer of gold applied using an electrochemical process

  • Attractive and affordable, but can wear off more quickly

  • May expose the base metal underneath, which can cause irritation for some people

👉 See our range of gold-filled components and plated jewellery findings.

Nickel-Safe Jewellery and EU Standards

Nickel is one of the most common causes of jewellery allergies. To protect consumers, the EU has strict regulations on nickel release.

  • For prolonged skin contact: ≤ 0.5 µg/cm²/week

  • For piercings: ≤ 0.2 µg/cm²/week

  • Test standard: EN 1811

This means jewellery marketed as “nickel-safe” must comply with these limits, even if it contains nickel. Check for our Nickel Safe products.

💡 Tip: Sensitivity levels vary—always check whether your supplier provides compliance information.

Care Tips to Minimise Reactions

Even with the right metal, good care reduces the chance of irritation:

  • Rinse and dry jewellery after workouts, swimming, or exposure to sweat

  • Avoid spraying perfume or lotions directly on jewellery contact areas

  • Rotate pieces to give your skin a break

  • Clean regularly to remove buildup of sweat, soap, or skincare products

Final Thoughts

Allergy-safe jewellery isn’t just about choosing the right metal—it’s about understanding how different materials interact with the skin. Whether you choose 316L stainless steel, gold-filled findings, or nickel-safe tested components, making informed choices helps you (and your customers) enjoy jewellery without irritation.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is 316L better than 304 for sensitive skin?
Often yes. 316L contains molybdenum and is generally more stable in sweat and chlorides, which can help reduce nickel release. That said, individual responses vary.

Is gold-filled hypoallergenic?
Gold-filled has a much thicker gold layer than standard plating and is often well-tolerated, but sensitivity can still occur in some people.

What are the EU nickel limits?
The EU limits nickel release to ≤ 0.5 µg/cm²/week for items in prolonged skin contact, and ≤ 0.2 µg/cm²/week for piercings. Testing is carried out under standard EN 1811.

 

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